The wave closed over him.
Joel let it take control and push him deeper. Breath burned in his throat and shoved against his ribs. He rolled in the wave’s tumble, then relaxed and waited for the inevitable. It came, as he knew it would.

Photo by Jeremy Bishop on Unsplash

The surge passed. Ejected from the wave’s embrace, he lay suspended in the water column for a moment, motionless. Then he pushed upward and broke the surface…